Feature: DAVID KOMA PRESENTS FIRST MENSWEAR COLLECTION SPRING SUMMER 2025
‘Venturing into menswear feels like a natural step, completing my dream of ‘Club Koma’. This process has fostered a profound sense of personal connection and introspection, as I see myself as the ultimate customer for the first time. The launch of this collection is particularly special as it allows me to design with my male friends in mind, broadening the inclusivity and reach of my creative vision. I am thrilled about this new chapter and invite new voices and perspectives to join our brand’s realm.’ – David Koma, Founder and Creative Director.
Following a recent womenswear collection inspired by prominent figures in the dance world like Pina Bausch and Candela Capitan, transitioning to explore the dance realm through the menswear lens felt like a natural progression. Jiří Kylián’s contemporary ballet, ’Sarabande’, served as a starting point. This powerful piece, featuring traditional ballet and contemporary dance influences, delves into the intricate interplay of male aggression and vulnerability. The exploration of the concept of ‘formation’ within the performance resonated deeply with the designer as he embarked upon his first foray into menswear.
To represent the multifaceted nature of masculinity, echoing the diverse characters that form David’s personal social circle, the collection uses juxtapositions as pivotal elements, offering both commonplace and distinctive qualities. The Koma Man embodies strength, aloofness, and independence, yet exudes a soft, sensual aura. The collection sets out to strike a balance between ease and sophistication, blending playful characteristics with refined elegance. To temper the overtly masculine utilitarian references, subtle nods to whimsy and sensuality are introduced.
The collection seeks to elevate quintessential wardrobe materials. Office-like poplins are embellished and manifest in the form of military shirting and boxer shorts. The denim range is presented in dusty indigo palette or reimagined in raw boucle. Leather appears in tailored and casual forms, offered in soft napa or with heavy distressing, as if ‘cracked’. A soft touch graces an extensive array of tailored shapes, crafted from cady, satin, and wool boucle, and adorned with branded chrome hardware or garter-like detail, reinterpreting Gavin Turk’s 1993 artwork ‘Pop’. The intricate embellishments and opulent feather plumes are balanced and grounded by casual jersey elements, which exude a lived-in quality, as if borrowed directly from a dancers’ personal wardrobes. The pieces invite tactile engagement and introspection, presenting the designer’s honest perspective on modern masculinity through a nuanced blend of strength, softness, and grit.
Photos Courtesy of LUKAS WASSMANN for David Koma
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